Japan FW TYO Spring/Summer 2009: Day 2

Day Two at Japan’s Fashion Week brings strong shoulders, more “ice cream cone” pants, HISUI seems to have a bone to pick with us, doll clothes, Cousin IT wigs, more ruffs and some ass kicking 80’s.

First up are the decidedly strong shoulders from designer Akira Naka.  For women who have the weight of the world to balance, this collection calls to mind a certain eighties business suit jacket look.

AKIRA NAKA

Designer

AKIRA NAKA

Of all of Tuesday’s collections available for review, I would have to say that support surface was my favorite.  We have fall 2008’s “it” pants back for an encore and a really lovely modern interpretation of the bold shoulder.  I would feel much more comfortable wearing this sort of shape than a set of linebacker shoulder pads as seen in the above collection from AKIRA NAKA.  One thing is for sure, invest in a great pair of oxford shoes!

support surface

Designer

Norio Surikabe

 

Like mintdesigns yesterday, HISUI seems to have been inspired by skeletal features.  Is it a commentary on the pressure to be thin?  I’m not really sure, but the first dress in this collection also brings a fish like skeleton to mind.

HISUI

Designer

Hiroko Ito

Oh Né-net, what can I say?  All I could think of was what would Michael Kors say if this came down the runway for him to judge?  Look number two looks like a modern day Depression Era costume (hmm, intentional?) and just in case we didn’t get it, Raggedy Ann and Andy are holding effigies of themselves.

Né-net

Designer

Kazuaki Takashima

Aguri Sagimori had some very interesting uses of the ruffle, which seems to be a popular trend.  I especially liked the white blouse below with the tuxedo-like tail.  That sort of tail was very popular in the mid to late eighties.

AGURI SAGIMORI

Designer

Aguri Sagimori

Slightly similar to motonari ono yesterday, Kamishima Chinami has its own interpretation of the ruff and an intriguing take on the popular bold shoulder.  It’s a really lovely collection.

KAMISHIMA CHINAMI

Designer

Chinami Kamishima

Finally! There’s no need to wonder what you and your man will be wearing on your next date night.  Take a little inspiration from the sexy punk collection by designer Ato Matsumoto.

ato

Designer

Ato Matsumoto

 

Photo Source: Japan Fashion Week Organization

Stay Tuned for more of Japan’s Fashion Week in Tokyo!

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Web Poll: Don or Don’t

Mad About Mad Men

 

If you haven’t tuned in to Mad Men on AMC, you’re missing out.  Mad Men is set in the 1960’s at a fiercely competitive Madison Avenue advertising agency in New York City.  From the onset, one can’t help but be a little surprised by the dynamic of the men and women depicted during this era.  The men run around like dogs in heat and the secretaries are subjugated to sexual toys for their male counterpart’s amusement.  But it’s so much fun to watch!

While Mad Men is overtly politically incorrect by today’s standards, I’m fascinated by the complex characters, each of whom seems to be harboring an unethical secret of their own. 

Holding true to the time period, pregnant mothers are seen smoking and drinking, unseatbelted children climb from the back to front seats while their mother is driving and smoking cigarettes reign supreme.  It was this sort of behavior so acceptable to that era, that will have you asking yourself, “What are we doing now that will be considered so deplorable in 40 years?”  It certainly gets you thinking.

For the fashion lovers out there, you will not be disappointed.  Fantastic full skirts with petticoats, perfectly coiffured hair and sweater sets, all hide the dirty secrets that lie beneath; suffocating girdles, garters and the pointed bra.  And we complain about panty hose…

Then there is the antithesis of the prim house wife and office girl; the bohemian artist…

After one season, this show has already made a big impact on fashion.  Michael Kors unveiled his Mad Men inspired Fall line this week with the following looks.

 

 

 

Don’t forget that if you are going to wear one of the above form fitting dresses like that little purple number, you must wear some sort of shapeware.  My only exception would be if you are a size 2 and are absolutely without cellulite.  Proper foundation will give you a killer, smooth silhouette.

If you haven’t caught an episode of this fantastic show yet, it’s not too late.  Season one is out on DVD (and On Demand for you Comcast subscribers) and Season 2 is now underway (you have only missed one new episode).  The show is on AMC on Sunday nights.

Light up a cigarette, pour yourself an Old Fashioned and enjoy!

 

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Fashion Sensei Says…

Knit One, Pearl Two or Three…

Keep cool in this knitwear the next time you are in the market.

 

 

 

Do you think you know Fashion?  Prove it!

I discovered this fun little fashion quiz on about.com, to distinguish who really knows their fashion.  Let me know how you do!

 

In The News…

Thomas Pink, known for his high-end men’s dress shirts will roll out a women’s collection in mid- August.  An outside designer Richard Nicoll has created nine dresses, skirts and shirts.  Prices range from $195-$500.  Click here to read more.

Bloomingdale’s will expand their collections for women age 35- 50 into a boutique-like departments where multiple labels will be intermixed to allow women to mix and match styles from a variety of makers.

Hip Hop Artist Andre 3000 will debut his new menswear collection this August at department stores such as Barney, Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale’s.  The collection is said to be based on the preppy styles worn on college campuses in the early 20th century.  Prices range from $75 to $1,995.

Angelina’s been dumped.  Not by Brad Pitt, by St. John.  After three years, Jolie will no longer be the face of St. John.

“The campaign, using models who aren’t household names, departs from the black-and-white images of Jolie shot by Mario Testino under the direction of David Lipman. It consists of four color vignettes shot at night in New York City locations, including Times Square and Central Park. Each captures a specific color palette and group, from daywear to cocktail to evening. The ads will launch in the August issue of Vanity Fair.” WWD

 

Androgynous Art…

Timo! wallets are the hottest eco/efficient/artistic billfold to hit the hipster scene.  The slim wallets come in artistic prints that you or your honey will love.  Maybe even a gift idea for Fathers Day…

(click image for shopping info)

Clip This Coupon…

Express buy three get one free!  Click here and print.

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Fashion Lesson #15 Crimes Of Fashion

Last week, I wrote about developing your own Signature Style.  Since then, it has come to my attention that I also need to discuss self editing. Therefore, I will profile 4 of the worst offenders and their fashion personalities:

She’s Bringin’ Sexy Back

This describes the woman who always wears clothes that are either too tight or are ill fitting. The inspiration for this post occurred when I went to the gym last weekend. A woman checking in ahead of me was wearing a very low-cut, flesh toned tank top in which her breasts looked like they were fighting to escape.  The woman seemed to be oblivious that she needed to cover up.  The Sexy Back gal doesn’t know what’s appropriate and where.

Fashion Tip:  Get a professional fitting for a bra, Go up one size in your clothes and understand sexy is not looking slutty.  You can wear clothes that bear a little cleavage, just not all of it. One other thing, keep the butt cheeks under wraps too while you’re at it.  Think Salma Hayek when looking for a sexy style role model.

 Pack Rat

A client of mine recently asked me what the basic expiration is for clothes.  While not everything has an expiration date (i.e. vintage Chanel), in general, I would say about 2-3years.  That does not include timeless well tailored basics like a white blouse, black pants or jacket.  Understand that each year designers look for ways to update their collections to generate more sales for their companies.  Prime examples are the changing lengths of skirts, shapes of shoes (think wedge or pointed toes) or cuts on collars. 

So many of us keep things counting on the return of that fashion cycle.  But consider this, chances are you will be too old to wear that trend the next time it comes back around the fashion merry-go-round. 

Back in the 80’s, fluorescent T-Shirts, skinny jeans and half tops were considered really stylish.  That was 28 years ago.  Imagine how stupid I would look wearing a half top 28 years later (designer or otherwise). 

Fashion Tip:  You have to know when to let go.  If it is showing signs of wear or you haven’t worn it in 2 years get rid of it.  If you own quality jewelry or shoes from trends of yore, hold on to them and wear sparingly during the next cycle of that trend.  But also think about it this way, do you really want to hold on to all that stuff for another 20+ years?

The Fashion Experiment

This is a woman who doesn’t like to play by the rules.  She likes to use pieces that were never meant for the purpose she is intending.  A prime example was the woman profiled on Buttercup Punch this week. She decided to wear a scarf for shirt (I doesn’t matter that it was a Chanel scarf).  Consider your shape, wearing a scarf for a shirt will either make you look like you are waiting in line for a smorgasbord with your bib ready or a contestant on Survivor.

There’s also those women who don’t understand formal wear vs. casual wear.  These ladies will put shoes that they wore in last summer’s wedding with a pair of shorts and casual top. 

Fashion Tip:  I embrace experimentation and so should you.  That being said, if you don’t have anything clean to wear, do the laundry; don’t start experimenting with household objects.  Try to step out of your comfort zone and try looks that you wouldn’t ordinarily.  For example, try a little bit of color or a pattern that is in proportion to your size.  It’s ok to try new things, but take it one piece at a time.

40 Going On 20

Did anyone see The Real Housewives of New York City?  Do you remember Ramona?  This woman’s young daughter had to tell her that she dresses too young.  Ramona actually snuck a lingerie looking top out of the house so her daughter (who hid it) wouldn’t find out.  How bad is that?  

Fashion Tip:I understand that 50 is the new 30, but you need to check yourself if you are over a certain age and still visiting the Junior section.  This is something that even I struggle with from time to time.  I really like youthful fashion (I own Little “RED” Riding hood Chuck Taylors), but there is a line.  As with the Fashion Experiment, you need to edit wisely.  Once you enter a new decade for your age, you need to limit the number of trendy pieces you wear at once. 

If you have any other Fashion Crime examples or better yet, pictures, feel free to leave a comment!

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Fashion Lesson #14 Signature Style

When you think of Anna Wintour’s style what do you think of first?  I think of her bob haircut. (It’s reported that she has had the cut since the age of 14.)  Karl Lagerfeld? Fingerless gloves and white starched high-collared shirts.  Finally, when I think of Coco Chanel, I think of pearls and the Little Black Dress.

So when it comes to your style, what is your signature look?  Is it an old locket that your mother gave you that you never take off?  Smartly tailored shirts? Killer heels?  When someone thinks about you, what comes to their mind first?  My only hope is that it is not overly sprayed hair, tapered acid washed jeans and blue eye shadow.

There’s a difference between a signature look that evolves with you over the years and just sticking with something that looked good on you two decades ago. 

For me it has been long hair.  I’ve cut my hair over the years, but I seem to look best when I wear it long and usually with a lot of layers.  I also have a necklace that I have only taken off a handful of times over the past 5 1/2 years.

My suggestion for “discovering” your signature style is to think about what you love most about yourself or is meaningful to you.  Do you have killer legs?  Wear skirts or some wicked heels.  A swan-like neck?  Think of making necklaces your signature look.  If you were blessed with a tiny little waist, you could make belts your signature style.  If you have lovely delicate hands, keep your fingernails well groomed and polished; ditto for feet.  Another accessory that just about all of us can pull of is a hat.  As we saw at the London premier of Sex And The City, hats come in all shapes and sizes; there’s something for everyone.

  

 

So while you are going about your day today or when getting ready this weekend, think about your signature style or lack there of.  What do you want others to know about you when they see you?

 

Click on images for photo sources.

 

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Fashion Lesson #13 What Is Fashion Sense?

Photo Source: Style Slicker 

A couple of weeks ago, sinisterrouge from Buttercup Punch wrote “What Is Fashion Sense?”.

I was really struck by her honesty:

“I have no fashion sense. None. I also have no beauty sense. I lack what people would refer to as ‘girly-ness.’ I wear barely any makeup. I don’t do my hair. I don’t know how to apply liquid eyeliner. Don’t get me wrong. I get by. I can do the basics. Like jeans and a sweater. But to put an outfit together? That is what I would refer to as hell.”

There are a lot of women out there that feel like sinisterrouge, with the overwhelming choices available to women and the trends that are in today and out tomorrow.  What do you buy?

Another contributing factor to her fashion sense quandry, was her strict upbringing and a lack of a beauty or fashion mentor.  Sometimes it really does go back to your childhood doesn’t it?  I once had a conversation with a client who would compliment me on a pair of red Mary Jane shoes that I wore.  I finally convinced her to buy a pair of red shoes similar to mine.  After I delivered them to her, she revealed to me that she felt that she could never wear red shoes because her mother told her only “harlots” wear red shoes.  Wow!  I can only imagine what she would think of me, I wear those shoes all the time.

I think fashion sense can be an inherent trait or something you can learn.  That is much of what I try to do with this blog.  I sincerley try to impart helpful information with these Fashion Lessons so you can move past some of the inherited attitudes from your childhood and embrace your own athstetics.

The rules in fashion are always changing.  Wearing matching shoes and handbags was a rule our parents or grandparents wouldn’t dare deviate from.  Now, the only time you see matching shoes and handbags are when people are wearing black and I venture to guess that is the only color purse they own.

When trying to break out of your preconceived fashion confines, take baby steps.  Choose a new bracelette or necklace.  Buy a scarf for your hair for those bad hair days (the one pictured is only $4.80, click on it) or go really crazy and buy a pair of shoes with color in them, not just the black or brown variety.

When your ready for a real overhaul, invite your best friend over and have them help you go through your closet.  A close friend like this should have no problem advising you if something is too old, too ugly, or too small.  THEN GET RID OF IT! Too many of us hold on to a bunch of old crap that we don’t wear any more, or fit the afore mentioned criteria.  It’s time to break up with the old college T-Shirt that has holes and stains from your first college kegger.  Discarding old clothes does not mean that your are throwing away pieces of yourself or parts of your life.

Some people hold on to the ugliest clothes, shoes etc. because it represents some period of their life.  Take a picture of it, put it in an album and move on.  Make a quilt (albeit an ugly one) to remember all those pieces of your life.  At least that is practicle and will leave you more closet space to usher in a new chapter in your life.

Don’t do it because you feel guilty, do it because you deserve it.  Thanks sinisterrouge!

 

 

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Fashion Lesson #12 Petite Tubular Shape

A few weeks back reader Stacy left me the below comment on Fashion Lesson #4 Petite Proportion:

Hi
This was helpful. True, cuffs on trousers are not the best and tailoring is a must if you don’t want to look like you were playing dress-up with someone else’s clothes. Looking younger than I am is a double whammy, I am baby faced as well as teeny…tee-shirts are never a good look for me, unless I want to look like I am still in High school. However, I am looking for some guidance about buying summer dresses and swimwear for someone 5′0, with a tube type shape (i.e. no waist), and something to cover up upper arms too.

I promised Stacy that I would address the figure variation of being not only petite but more of a straight shape as well. 

Although a double-edge sword, the fact that she has a youthful appearance is something that we all would love.  However when your peers in the working world or clients think you look the same age as Miley Cyrus, you have a bit of a problem. 

 

Do

If your youthful glow is working against you, it’s important to convey a sophisticated manner.  As mentioned in Fashion Lesson #4 you must shop in the petite section.  Big baggy clothes as you said, can make you look like you are playing dress up.  Stores like Banana Republic, Ann Taylor/Loft and major department stores carry petite sizes that will project a more mature image.

(click on images for shopping information)

 

Don’t

Stay away from the Junior section if your goal is to look older.  Avoid stores like Urban Outfitter or American Apparel.  I personally love these stores and have featured their collections in past posts, but unless you are just hangin’ with friends, take your business elsewhere.

 

Do

As a petite, I also recommend wearing heels to add a little height.  When I was in High School, my best friend’s mom was a petite woman and was never without her heels.  I mean never.  She was known to wear a pair of sky high wedge sandals when cleaning the house. 

Now it’s ridiculous to go that far. Everyone should be able to wear flats, but on those occasions that you want people to take you seriously, kick it with some fantastic heels. 

Now let’s address the second part of Stacy’s question the Tubular or Straight figure.  If you are lacking JLo curves, there are a few tricks that will make a straight woman look a little more curvy.

Do

This wrap dress from Ann Taylor does a great job of defining a waist with the tie and the A line adds some fullness making your waist look smaller than your hips.  (I’m not a huge fan of the hat with this dress, but that just my personal aesthetic.)  Further, be sure to add a punch of color to this ensemble.  The black color block shoes above would look great with this and a colorful bracelet or necklace will make it look less like you are on your way to a funeral.

Not to belabor the point, but this dress from Banana Republic would be another terrific option.  The dress is a little longer, so be sure to wear high heels in a neutral shade to visually extend the length of your legs.

Here’s a shorter option from BCBG.

Don’t

If the object is to give the appearance of curves, don’t pick a dress that will only make your figure look more shapeless, like this dress.  Do you see how the line across the chest and the lower stripe on the pockets create a box?  This will only make your figure look boxier.  Who would this dress be good for?  My guess would be a short waist woman.  The high stripe contrasted with the low stripe on the pockets gives the illusion of more area.

 

 

Do

If you want to look like you have a little junk in your trunk, this suit jacket with the peplum flounce in the back adds a little curve to the rear view.  It also comes in at the waist and out at the hips creating definition.  The other thing that I love about this suit aside from the sleeves being scrunched up and the collar raised (very 80’s chic), is the fact that the trousers are pinstripe.  This will add a little length to your leg.  The only downside of this suit is that because of the cuff, I would prefer that the length were a little longer.

 

When thinking about shorts this summer, traditional rules are that petites wear mid thigh or shorter shorts.  I did however feel like you could break the rules with these cropped pants and here’s why.  First, they are flesh tone.  If you pair them with a flesh tone cork wedge and a darker top like the one illustrated, the line of the leg is much longer.  If you have a darker skin tone this particular style comes in many shades that could compliment your complexion.

 

You mentioned that you wanted to keep your upper arms covered, so here is another option for the top from J.Crew.  The small print will not be overwhelming for your size and will add a focal point to your upper half leaving your legs to look long and lean.

Finally, you asked about swimwear.  Now this is really tough.  Primarily because I have never seen you, so I can only go by a generalization.  I chose cuts based on a slender figure, only because that is the general impression I got when I read your message.  But, I will include some other options for you straight gals who want to suck it in a little more.

Do

In general you will want to look for something with a little flair to it if you are looking for something beyond a typical bikini.

This suit has a cute little skirt.  You may also notice that the model in this picture has a bit of a straight figure herself.  Also, the V neck for the to draws the eye down unlike the Don’t example I will discuss in a little bit.

I love this little suit from Juicy Couture.  The top adds a little visual interest and like the peplum suit earlier, a little flair.

Don’t

Stay away from the boyshort cut.  If you look at this example with the same model, the horizontal line in the top and the bottom only make her look even more square.

It’s a bit of a stretch I know because most of us would love to have her body and really she could carry off just about anything (I’m sure that’s why J.Crew hired her).

Do

This might be another sexy option.  No matter how small your breasts are, just hoist them up and push them out a little bit like the model in this picture.

If you are concerned about your midsection, the ruching on this suit also helps camouflage any imperfections.

Stacy, I really hope this advice helps.  I was a little out of my comfort zone on the swim suits, but I hope you find something that might make sense.

As always, if you have any questions that you would like a Fashion Lesson on, feel free to leave a comment.

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Fashion Sensei Says…

These Shoes Are Made For Walkin’…

(click on images for shopping details)

 

 

Funk Sucker…

The Eco Shoe Dryer will suck all the moisture from your shoes sparing the stench that might have been.  Just plug it into the wall and when it’s finished, the light will give you the green light to funk freedom.

 

 

Dinner Party Duds…

I saw this dress at the store and really fell in love with it.  It would be good for those of us with tummies.

 

 

Check It Out…

This week, the legendary CBGB became the new home to John Varvatos’ new store.  If you are a CBGB fan, you will be pleased to see that some of the old has remained for you to enjoy. 

The old walls with the original graffiti and stickers (along with a retractable stage) can still be enjoyed while you peruse the full John Varvatos line including some limited edition wares which include the new CBGB-only 315 Bowery Collection, and an alliance with vintage fetishists What Comes Around Goes Around.

 

 

 

Pillowcases For A Cause…

Children Raising Children

Before you trash an old pillowcase, think again.  In the spirit of Earth Month, take a pillowcase, new or gently used, and transform it into a darling little dress.

Little Dresses For Africa provide dresses made from a pillowcase through a simple pattern that anyone could follow.  The dresses will then be distributed to orphan girls in Malawi Africa.

Once the dresses are completed, they can be mailed to 24614 Curtis Drive, Brownstown, Michigan 48134. There will be another trip to Africa in June to distribute your dresses, so don’t procrastinate!  

Here is a link to the pattern and another to the organization.  Take a look at this cute little dress “Veggie Mamma” made.

 

 

 

My Heavens…

How did they get her hair to do that?

This was a recent ad for Aveda to “Pump Up the Volume”.  The texture on the bottom of her hair is so strange.  I wonder if they used hair pieces.  This all makes me think of America’s Next Top Model and the wild things they do for photo shoots.

 

 

Carry On…

bollywood stevie by kate spade

 

 

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Thuy Diep Fall/Winter 2008 Collection

Here’s a designer to keep an eye on.  It’s no surprise that designer Thuy Diep is as talented as she is.  Ms. Diep was born in Vietnam to parents who are both tailors.  Under their tutelage, this designer learned at an early age how to make clothes.

She went on to Brown, later Parsons and landed at a New York-based Parisian atelier; doing work for the likes of Carolina Herrera, Peter Som and Zac Posen.  Not to mention some time at United Bamboo.

In her third collection Thuy Diep under the self-named label “Thuy”, displayed her Fall/Winter 2008 collection at the Exit Art gallery in her home base of New York.  When asked her inspiration for this collection she said: “My collection is about contrasts– harmony within disharmony”. 

I seriously despise the fact that I cannot provide you with any photos, but I highly recommend that you click here for a look at her F/W collection.

I really like her use of color and the modern look of her garments.  She according to her press release:

She materializes the myriad of inspirations of her Manhattan environment, where contrasts of colors and forms are ubiquitous, creating a collection to dress the modern, chic and sophisticated woman. Thuy’s unique designer perspective was conveyed through her outerwear as she showed a command of layering techniques.

Her designs are available at Divine Girls (San Francisco), Nicchia (Chicago) (where I found the below beautiful dress from her Spring 2008 collection) and Drawer (Tokyo and Osaka).

 

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