Today is our second expanded installment on Holiday Makeup. If you haven’t already, be sure to read last week’s Holiday Makeup Fashion Lesson.
Today, we are fortunate to read the advice offered by My Hair and Makeup founders Deborah and Claudia Caraballoso.
About My Hair and Makeup
My Hair and Makeup (MHM) was founded in 2005, by sisters Deborah and Claudia Caraballoso. After observing for many years how celebrities were catered to and were magically transformed, they decided that every woman deserves that type of star-quality service. Located in the heart of Manhattan, MHM was founded on the concept of providing celebrity service at an affordable price.
Younger sis Claudia, served as guinea pig and assistant in her early years, but has since grown into her own, completing courses at the American Academy McAllister Institute where she studied: chemistry, facial anatomy, microbiology involving skin diseases, restorative makeup artistry, theatrical lighting and photography lighting among other related courses.
The reason I am publishing MHM’s full transcript, first off is because they have a fantastic sense of humor. I was laughing out loud at some of their one-liners and I bet you will too.
Secondly, they called attention to one very important facet of makeup- choosing the right color. More specifically, they ask us to consider what sort of skin tone we embody.
But, before I reveal all their secrets, lets take a look at what the ladies had to say when I asked them about Holiday Makeup.
Q: What colors are right for me?
A: There is one universal rule of thumb when selecting makeup for all age groups. Get to know your skin tone. Most people fall into two categories, warm and cool. And there are the few fortunate ones that are considered to be neutral. This is most crucial when selecting a foundation. While the shade of your foundation is key, just as important is the undertone of the foundation. Here are some general guidelines to help determine your skin tone:
You are likely to be cool if you have blue/gray eyes, possibly blonde (can be brunette too) and are fair skin. Your undertone is pinkish and bluish.
You are likely to be warm if you have brown, green or hazel eyes. Your hair color is dark and warm such as red or auburn. Your undertone is olive, yellow and/or orange.
Finally, the neutral has any hair color, eye color and looks good in anything and your undertone is hard to determine. Look for foundations that have the same undertones for a more natural, flawless look.
Cool tones: When selecting shadows, soft earth tones and pastels are probably best. Pinky and peachy tones give a nice soft glow to your cheeks and lips. And for you bold ladies who love red, choose a red lipstick with a cool/bluish undertone.
Warm tones: Shadows in deep earthy tones look amazing such as greens, purples, and browns. For blush, deep peachy/pinks and plums highlight cheek bones. Go ahead a play with color on your lips. Warm tones are very versatile and can pull off pinky shades, and just as easily look great in red lipsticks that have a brown or berry undertone.
Neutral Tones: In a nutshell, go ahead and play you can wear almost anything!
Q: Am I too old to wear trendy shade?
A: No one is ever too old to look cool. On the other hand, you’re never too old to look ridiculous. The right colors strategically placed can compliment your look. But the wrong color slathered on the whole eyelid or cheeks will make you look clownish.
Don’t be afraid to try new looks. Look at magazines to get inspiration and ideas from like aged models. If a look is too bold or too soft for your personal taste, adjust it to fit your style. For example, if the application of a smokey eye is what you are drawn to, but cannot get past the frosted green eye shadow, try using a softer color the compliments your skin tone. Deepening or softening the complimentary color can keep you in with the trend while staying true to your personal style and most importantly, be age appropriate.
Q: How do I apply eye shadow, blush, foundation, lip color etc?
A: Less is more when it comes to foundation and women over 30. Our 30’s and beyond is the time where all of a sudden you wake up one morning and face the reality that that line you thought was there because you slept on one side of your face too long is actually a wrinkle. Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize!
Choosing a foundation, such as a tinted moisturizer and using it only where needed blending well will look best. Thicker foundations are more likely to settle in your wrinkles and creases. Stay away from powder if possible. Powder will accentuate your crows’ feet and wrinkles.
Choose a cream base blush, applying it at the apples of your cheek blending upwards. Blush should look light and natural, as if you were truly blushing.
Eyeshadow is where we get to play for special event makeup. However, it requires honesty. You may feel like you’re 25, but your eye lids tell another story. If you are fortunate and have nice taut eye lids, then go ahead and apply your shadow as you always have. Of course, trading in the glittery pink shadow for a more sophisticated, complimentary shade. Go ahead and highlight your brow bone with a light shimmery shade just under your eyebrow. If done correctly, the result is an instant eye lift.
If you are eyelid challenged then keep it simple, sweep a beautiful color on your lower lid and highlight your brow bone. Be careful not to add so much that you have now given your crows’ feet a stage, a spotlight and a microphone.
If you are a true diva, and would like to play with gold’s, silvers, and shimmers, be strategic with it. Don’t cover your entire lid with a gold shadow. Highlight just the inner corners of your eyes with a shimmery gold or silver. Chances are this area of the eye has not been dramatically affected by any loosening of the skin or wrinkles. This is a good area to highlight and it gives you a red carpet look. However, if you choose to highlight your inner corners, stay away from highlighting your brow bone. You will end up dating yourself. Choose one area or the other to highlight.
Beware of your eyeliner. This is where your normal routine should change. Black eyeliner will age you. Choose softer liners such as a soft brown or brown black. Try using it only on your top lid. Keep the bottom clean and fresh. Begin applying liner as close as you can to your lashes working your way out from the inner corner and stopping short of the end and slightly angling the liner up almost in a wing effect. This will draw the eye up. Blend out the line slightly using the back side of your eyeliner pencil. Be sure not to give yourself a rocker chick liner from the 80’s. It should be subtle and soft.
While we all would love to be Angelina Jolie- your 30’s is not the time to experiment. You will end up looking like Goldie Hawn in “The three wives club”.
Choose a lip liner close to your natural color and line your natural lip. We simply want to prevent feathering and enhance durability. Liner can do that for you. Apply lip color over the lip liner within the lines of your natural lip not above.
If you want your lips to appear fuller or larger, use a lip plumper and/or lip gloss. A nice little trick to make your lips appear “poutier” is to take a shimmery champagne or vanilla shade eye shadow and softly dab a little on the center of your bottom lip over your lip color. Be sure to blend it but keep it in the center only. Then apply gloss.
A final way to glam it up for that special event, is to explore false eyelashes. You’re simply never too old for them. If chosen correctly, eyelashes enhance any eye. Then can accentuate, bring drama or romanticize your eye.
There are many to choose from. You can buy them in your local drug store if you are handy and think you can apply them yourself. Or if you have the budget for them, you can have permanent lashes professionally applied that will last up to 2 months. If you are not a self-proclaimed makeup artist but can’t really break the bank for the night out, then you can opt to have temporary lashes put on. These will last up to one week and are relatively inexpensive. Lashes are always a special event DO!
Q: What are the tools necessary to create the best evening look?
A: Anything that enhances eyes and lips. A seductive shadow coupled with the right pair of eyelashes or a bold or glossy lip can speak volumes. Choose one, never do both at the same time. Your blush and foundation can generally remain the same. But eyes and lips will change your look every time. Give yourself options, contrary to popular belief there is a shade of red lipstick for everyone. Find one that suits you. Keep a lip gloss handy for when you’re feeling bold and sexy. Or if you want tantalizing eyes, have deeper and shimmery shades of shadows to play with. However, remember to be kind with the shimmery shades. Handle with care.
Q: Solutions for common mistakes women over 30 make.
A: Women over 30 tend to go into a panic when they notice the first gray hair or that first wrinkle. Almost immediately, they begin to try and hide everything. They begin dying their hair if they haven’t done so already. They begin to wear more and more makeup. The foundation and powder gets heavier and heavier trying desperately to hide the dark circles or the wrinkles. And before you know it, Tammy Fae emerges.
The first thing women over 30 need to do is to go into to damage control. If they haven’t been doing so already, they need to begin to take good care of their skin. They should establish a good skin care regimen. Start to use ant-aging products. Be sure to exfoliate weekly. Use SPF 15 or higher. Again, moisturize, moisturize, moisturize. Slow down the inevitable. Taking good care of your skin only enhances how makeup will appear on your skin. The better the skin, the better the application will look.
Go easy on the makeup. When applying makeup, focus on enhancing your best features. Not just trying to hide every flaw. Many times you just bring the flaws to the forefront.
Q: Are there any rules that women in their 30s, 40s, 50s+ should be following?
A: While there are no real “rules” in makeup because it is a form of self expression, there are some principles we should bear in mind.
- Skin care is key. If your skin doesn’t look good, you won’t look good.
- Foundation is the bases of your makeup. It should be minimal and dewy. Everything else revolves around a good foundation application. The best smokey eye will not be showcased if it is overshadowed by an ill matched, wrinkle enhancing foundation application.
- Raccoon eyes are a no no! Steer clear of dark eyeliner. This will definitely age you.
- Remember you’re still you. Don’t fall into the trap of trying to appear younger by following makeup trends that work for women in their 20’s, but is all wrong for the 30+. However, don’t be afraid to try new things always adjusting it to fit your personal style.
The reality is some of us are genetically blessed with great skin and some of us aren’t. Preserve what you have, improve where you can and accept what you cannot change.
To schedule an appointment or to learn more about My Hair and Makeup, go to www.myhairandmakeup.com.
Be sure to check out the Fashion Sensei Services page for more information on Fashion Consultations in the Metro Detroit area and more.